Impressions from Italy
I just got back from a two-week stay in Italy and after some reflecting I really think this time was different. In the past, my visits were more of a “see family, eat their food, see some sights” type of deal. This time, however, I think I really got into the nerve center of what it means to be Italian and what their daily life is like, meeting and mingling with Italians from all over.
The most interesting thing I got to experience was heading further north from where my family is in Pescara into Pesaro, considered to be the middle or centro of Italy. Even though Italy has been a united country for the better part of 150 years, there is still widespread segregation among its states, namely between the north, central, and southern regions. Generally speaking, southern Italians, a blanket term covering the regions of Sicily, Puglia, Calabria, and especially the city of Naples, are seen as corrupt delinquents by northern citizens, claiming they’re lazy, good-for-nothings that stay home all day unemployed being predisposed to acting violent. In turn, a fair amount of southern Italians generally believe northerners work too hard and life up north, while offering more opportunities, is stressful and not as emblematic of la dolce vita, “the sweet life” of good food and copious amounts of leisure activity that southerners claim to enjoy more.
Playing on this north vs. south discussion, while I was there, a large group of Neapolitan soccer fans caused a riot and laid siege to Trenitalia, the national train system that connects all of Italy. After a heated match, scores of Neapolitan Ultras (devoted fans that belong to organized clubs) rushed the station and demanded all train riders get off so they could ride for free. The police had no choice but to meet their demands. They then destroyed the surrounding trains, breaking windows, smashing seats, and causing over 500,000 Euro in damage. The penalty? No fans at home games for three months.
I remember watching what happened on RAI (a major Italian television network) with some family as they shook their heads in utter disgust. Even though the southern region is stunningly beautiful, it is easily the most corrupt of the entire country. Scores of illegal immigrants from Albania, Romania, and Africa arrive on their shores daily and the Mafia holds a tight grip, still forcing store owners to pay the pizzo or monthly protection money. If the pizzo isn’t paid, it is not uncommon for the store to be vandalized and/or burned to the ground. Work is hard to come by and many inhabitants leave the south for better prospects up north; it never works the other way around, my friends from Pesaro explained, nobody heads south. Some even come here to America, where it’s extremely rare to find northern Italian immigrants.
a group of immigrants into Italy fresh off the boat, referred to as clandestini
garbagemen in Naples have been known to go on strike, leaving accumulating garbage in the streets for days
Coincidentally, the northern region is vastly different. The exotic, cerulean shores of the south are replaced by factories and sprawling industrial compounds that well-known Italian brands such as Fiat, Ferrari, and Parmalat call home. Culturally, I would say you can see a noticeable difference in the people, environment, and the overall atmosphere from as far down as Ancona, but I think Bologna is generally accepted as the gateway to the northern region. Their accent is sharper and more grammatically precise, the majority of them not fitting the typical Italian stereotype of being bronzed, hairy, and chubby like Mario Macaroni in Little Italy, but instead being fairer-skinned and bearing a strong resemblance to Anglo-Saxons. A northerner’s view on life is also very different, favoring work and education over la dolce vita.
Fiat's factory located in Turin, the hub of all automobile production (with the exception of Ferrari's base in Modena), the Detroit of Italy
I had this intense conversation with my uncle from Milan on how the south of Italy is basically raping the country and giving Italy a bad reputation for the rest of the world. His opinions were quite strong- he likened Italy to a cow, explaining how Milan is the mind, the section that’s behind all of Italy’s commerce, politics, and revenue, and Rome as the utter, where everything is processed and milked, the “sweet spot” of Italy that attracts tourists. Finally, he told me that the south was the posterior end, where the dregs of Italian society live. While this is quite harse in my opinion (I haven’t had the chance to wander Milan yet to confirm or refute), his views are common among northern dwellers. My friend from Pesaro told me he would never visit Naples again, that a Neapolitan’s aim in life is to do nothing all day and scam you. He told me it is not uncommon to buy a television in Naples only to discover bricks in the box instead when you return home and open it. A policeman from Milan, a friend of my cousin, explained he couldn’t imagine doing his job down south, he wouldn’t have the stomach or ethics for it.
Universally, north and south included, my friends all agreed that Italian life is hard. The average salary is around 1,500 Euro a month (about $2,500) with rent in most cities being upwards of 600-700 Euros. Factor-in expensive living costs (food, gas, entertainment etc.) and you can easily understand why the average Italian man still lives with his parents, even in middle-age. Our beloved America, that is so defaced by some of our citizens who have no idea of what trying times really are, is seen as paradise.
I was on a train heading south from Pesaro to Pescara listening to a conversation between a young man, woman, and older couple. Trains in Italy have these little cabins that you sit in as opposed to rows of seats so you’re forced to stare at the person opposite you for the duration of the ride. The upside is that it’s very easy to spark up a conversation and/or listen to one. The young man was doing English grammar exercises in a book and was explaining how he was going home to his family. The young woman asked why he was learning English and he said he had just returned from Miami where he stayed for six months, working in a kitchen and even getting married to a Cuban girl; he planned to return as soon as the six-month propation period to receive a U.S. passport was up. As soon as the young girl heard “America”, a flurry of suggestive arm touches and eyelash bats followed. She was smitten.
most seats on regional trains face one another in cabins
Instead of ruining the whole spectacle by blurting out I was from New York, I continued to listen intentively- I would’ve even feigned a rough Italian accent if my mom called me on the phone and I had to speak to her in English. The young man went on that while America is beautiful and wealthy, Americans are coglioni, roughly translated to mean “assholes” or anything more creative to that effect. He said that at 18, they all leave their houses to go to college and then get jobs and leave their parents to rot, even going as far as to put them in nursing homes instead of caring for them themselves. The older couple opposite me then quipped Americans have no concept of family or respect, that their culture is based on working and money. Still though, the conversation then morphed into that if they all had the opportunity to leave Italy for America, they all would. Gladly. This sentiment is widespread. My 25-year-old cousin from Pescara lamented he hadn’t learned English, telling me Italy is 50 years behind the rest of the world and that he plans on leaving as soon as he finishes college. Also from Pescara, my middle-aged uncle shared a similar opinion saying he hopes his children leave Italy because there is nothing there.
The young man on train was praised for leaving Italy by the people listening to his story.
Even though I learned of an Italy that is a far-cry from what you might see on TV or travel brochures, of an Italy that some might refer to as brutal, unforgiving and corrupt (politically, economically, and bureaucratically), I am still in love with the place. I love the fact that going for a passegiata (long walk) after dinner has no set destination, you just walk to walk. I love how style reigns supreme, how an Alfa Romeo is the most perfect assemblage of metal and plastic a human could ever create and yet they are widely-regarded as not mechanically reliable. I love how when you sit in a restaurant they don’t rudely give you the check without asking; they generally let you stay and enjoy your meal at your own pace. I love la bella figura (a good image or first impression), that even if your wife is about to leave you and you’re dying of a terminal illness, you still take the time to press your shirt, put on a smile, and enjoy your day. I love that Italians drive fast, even through the majority of their cars are the size of Dustbusters and go from 0-60 in the time it takes to cook spaghetti. I love how, as my cousin so colorfully explained, a middle-aged woman doesn’t accept her age and does everything in her power to still look vibrant and attractive. I love that my name and heritage comes from Italy.
I just love it.
Tags: italy
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September 7, 2008 at 3:37 am
I just read the Italy blog, awesome. Great writing and great description. I feel like I learned a little culture, language and got confused trying to figure out the Euro-Dollar equivalent in my head. Other than that, awesome blog it sounds like you had a productive trip overseas. You should check out Poland for me and tell me how that goes, I doubt I’ll have enough money to ever get there.
September 11, 2008 at 10:27 am
Great post! Even though I grew up in an Northern Italian family here in NY (I’m Portuguese, but my step-father’s family is Italian), I did not have the understanding of the differences between North and South as you described in the post. It is something they don’t talk about much here in the states. Your description of your trip was fantastic and further supports my interest in visiting Italy, however, I am much less inclined to visit the south of Italy.
I guess it’s like anywhere though. There are “good” and “bad” parts to all countries, regions, cities and even towns. Some people want to relax and not stress about life and work and just live off of others in whatever way they can. Other people want the best for themselves and their families and will do anything (meaning work their asses off) to get it.
Thanks for the insight and glad you’re back at the office!
September 16, 2008 at 10:34 am
I’m glad I checked out your blog! Your Italy post felt honest and balanced. And what an eye-opening experience to be that fly on the wall, and hear what they really think about Americans. This one will be running through my mind today.
September 16, 2008 at 12:03 pm
All in all it was a worthwhile trip, I learned so much. I think that’s the best way to learn about a country- to hear stories from people who actually love there.
Shamelessly and gloriously eating their food helps too…
September 16, 2008 at 5:06 pm
Le scene di violenza in merito alla trasferta dei tifosi napoletani a Roma, hanno disgustato molti italiani. In italia ci siamo abituati ad abbinare il calcio con la violenza.
Infatti dopo la trasferta del Napoli a Roma, il ministro degli Interni ha bloccato tutte le trasferte a rischio elevato. E’ risaputo che esiste un interesse mafioso che controlla i gruppi di ultrà in trasferta. Il calcio ormai è un evento mediatico a disposizione di coloro che hanno i diritti televisivi.
Il problema degli stranieri in italia è un problema molto serio. Accanto a chi lavora, ci sono gli illegali che che delinquono o vivono ai margini della legalità.
In ospedale (vicino Roma) quando faccio il turno di notte, la maggior parte degli arrivi sono stranieri. Arrivano spesso scortati dalle forze dell’ordine. Sono sotto effeti di droga o alcol. Spesso causano gravi incidenti di auto.
Nella provincia di Roma dove io vivo, tutti hanno le grate di ferro alle finestre, la porta blindata e sistemi di allarme.
In questi ultimi anni il problema degli illegali è aumentato considerevolmente, sia
con gli sbarchi clandestini e sia con l’apertura delle frontiere (vedi la romania, l’albania, ex jugoslavia ecc..).
Soltanto adesso si incomincia a prendere provvedimenti importanti per arginare il fenomeno degli stranieri clandestini.
September 17, 2008 at 9:08 am
commenti interessanti, fausto. non lo sapevo che gli ultras siano collegati con la mafia. ho rivisto il video che ho messo nel articolo e ho notato che i poliziotti e i carabinieri stanno in piedi mentre la folla attaca la stazione. non hanno fatto nulla. se questo evento fosse successo in america (dove la mafia non e cosi potente nei confronti di quella che esiste in italia) ci sarebbe stato un intervento. 3 mesi senza i tifosi? una dimostrazione di questa natura meriterebbe qualcosa di piu.
October 25, 2008 at 1:52 pm
Ciao Francesco,
Just loved reading your comments about Italy–north and south. They are true sentiments of the Italian mentality. We just spend 3 weeks in Italy–from central Italy, in le Marche we went to Naples, and then by traghetto to Palermo. Alex and I spent 5 days in Sicily and just loved it! The people, contrary to the opinion of northern Italians, were fantastic! The scenery and lots of early Roman ruins make Sicily a worthwhile place to visit–but definitely not in June, July or August because the heat is unbearable.
A Neopolitan taxi driver told us you have to put euros into the backs of northern Italians for them to smile (imagine a bank that moves its hands up and down–this was the gesture of the taxi driver as he drove in the center of Naples). We also love Naples with all of its noise and confusion and one-way streets. It’s another place you have to visit.
We also visited Vacri–the old homestead. Lorenzo was pleased to have you visit him. Your next trip has to be longer than 2 weeks so that you can give us more of your thoughts.